Kimchee is becoming fashionable. Korean foods altogether are becoming trendy. The Korean dish dolsotbibimbap, the dish most representative of Korea, is now considered high cuisine. Korean recipes for dolsot bibimbap contain kimchee.
Dolsotbibimbap is a traditional Korean dish consisting of rice, seasoned or sautéed vegetables, meat, egg, kimchee and gochujang (spicy fermented bean paste.) Dolsot bibimbap means “stone pot” and refers to the practice of serving the dish in a bowl so hot it crisps the sesame-oil coated rice in the bottom. Dolsot bibimbap was recently featured on Iron Chef.
A real trend behind this bloom of global interest, besides the appreciation of fine food, is a health-conscious one.
Korean foods lend themselves to healthy eating practices. There are many Korean dishes that are vegetarian. Korean food is unique in flavors and is very different than any other Asian food. Korean recipes are springing up all over the internet.
Fermented foods are found in all traditional cultures. Fermentation was a way to preserve vegetables for eating in the winter months before the days of refrigeration. Fermented foods have enormous beneficial health qualities.
Kimchee, a Korean staple dish, has been shown to increase digestibility and iron uptake from beans and grains. It has anti-carcinogenic and antibiotic properties. It produces many helpful enzymes and is a decongestant. Folklore has it that it rids the body of fats.
Korean fermentation of cabbage and other vegetables has its origins in the Japanese and Chinese practices of pickling vegetables. This practice may have been introduced to Korea by its neighbors but Korean tastes always ran to the strong and flavorful. The introduction of the chile pepper in the 17th century led to the unique combination of ingredients that makes kimchee the most distinctive of Korean foods.
Japan and China are now the largest importers of Korean kimchee. The Japanese import $36 million worth of kimchee a year. The 2003 SARS outbreak in Japan and China had much to do with this. For reasons no one fully understands, Koreans remained largely unaffected by the virus, and accordingly, kimchee was touted as the reason. The typical Korean eats about 8oz. of kimchee per day, which makes up over 12% of their overall daily diet.
In 2005 the BBC reported that Seoul National University had conducted a bird flu study using kimchee. They fed 13 infected chickens kimchee and 11 began to recover. Following this news, the Wall Street Journal reported that Pulmuone Company, South Korea’s leading manufacturer of health foods, saw a 46% increase in kimchee sales.
Although there are yet no definitive studies proving that kimchee can prevent SARS or the bird flu there is no doubt that kimchee is a healthy Korean food.
The appreciation of Korean dishes that include fermented products like kimchee, gochujang (hot bean paste) and fish sauce can help many people to eat in a more healthy way. Dolsotbibimbap, the Korean dish that has gained in popularity here in the states contains both gochujang and kimchee.
Kimchee-making is a craft and mass production always carries with it the threat of thrift. Cutting costs to get the most return will change the original process of making kimchee and its traditional recipes.
Already, “healthy” versions of kimchee are appearing in natural foods stores and different versions of Korean recipes for kimchee are all over the web. Trendy or “healthy” versions of this already healthy product include cutting back salt, making super-fresh versions, using vinegar, and refrigerating kimchee immediately upon its making. Vegetarians object to the use of fermented shrimp paste or fish sauce in kimchee.
One maker of kimchee for natural food stores in Vermont explained that her kids complained about not wanting to have “kimchee breath” and that people are concerned about salt. She used sea salt (the one good change), added vinegar and sold it so fresh that fermentation couldn’t possibly occur.
The unfamiliarity with fermented foods and their process makes people leery of buying anything that has sat out unrefrigerated or that bubbles (a sign that lactic acid is at work.)
Salt is necessary to keep bad bacteria at bay until lactic acid is produced to ferment the kimchee. This lactic acid takes time to do its stuff and room temperature degrees are required to activate it.
The increasing use of vinegar to aid in fermentation detracts from the health benefits of kimchee: vinegar is not good to eat in large quantities and does not produce the same effects.
Also, fermentation is an unpredictable event. Kimchee flavors and Korean recipes for kimchee differ from batch to batch, household to household and region to region. Mass production requires uniformity and that often means the abandonment of original practices. Worries about food illness outbreaks leads to the practice of pasteurization.
Pasteurization entails subjecting foodstuff to high degrees in temperature, effectively killing all bacteria, even the beneficial bacteria that makes kimchee so healthy!
It’s wonderful to see this Korean dish getting the recognition it deserves but the Korean recipes floating around are not necessarily authentic, and the grocery store versions that contain preservatives belie the true process and benefits of fermentation altogether. If it needs preservatives, t hasn’t been fermented.
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